People come in various head shapes, sizes, and unique features. Just as with clothes, we often aim to highlight our best features and balance or downplay areas that may not be as advantageous. It’s the same principle with hats: not every hat style suits every face shape or body type, and finding the right fit can make a difference in your overall look.
Sadly, the knowledge of choosing hats to suit individual facial structures and body types has become something of a lost art. At Gentleman’s Gazette, we’re passionate about preserving and sharing this refined knowledge. Through our classic styling guides and expert insights—like our Hat Talk with Debbie Henderson—we make this timeless expertise accessible to the modern gentleman.
This guide is here to make it easy for you to choose a hat that suits both your face shape and body type. Whether aiming to elongate, balance, or soften specific features, our tailored recommendations will ensure you achieve a harmonious and flattering appearance with every hat you wear.
Hat Terms to Know
Hat Terminology Guide
A quick reference for essential hat vocabulary to help you understand the terms used throughout this guide. Knowing the parts of a hat—such as the crown, brim, and pinch—helps choose the right style and fit. This vocabulary guide covers everything from common terms to specific features that define classic hats.
Find out more about hat anatomy and terms here.
Best Hat Styles by Face Shape & Facial Features
Choosing the right hat involves finding a balance between your face shape, special facial features, and hat styles that work best with them. Here’s a guide to selecting hat styles based on both factors for a truly flattering look.
Ideal Hats based on Face Shapes
Square Face Shape with Wide Forehead and Angular Jawline
For those with a square face shape—characterized by a broad forehead and a strong, angular jawline—the goal is to soften these sharp lines for a more balanced look. Hats with softer, rounded brims are ideal, as they help to offset the angularity and create a harmonious appearance.
Avoid sharply structured hats, which may accentuate the jawline and forehead, making the face appear more rigid. Styles like bucket hats and newsboy caps work particularly well for square faces, as their softer shapes contrast angular features, resulting in a flattering and proportional look.
Round Face Shape with Rounded Forehead and Fuller Cheeks
Round faces typically have a rounded forehead and fuller cheeks, creating softer lines. Structured hats like fedoras or Panama hats add height and definition, balancing the roundness. Opt for a medium crown with a matching or slightly contrasting headband and a brim width of at least 2 inches (5 cm) to prevent the face from appearing rounder.
Diamond Face Shape with Narrow Forehead and Prominent Cheekbones
A diamond-shaped face, distinguished by a narrow forehead and chin along with prominent cheekbones, benefits from hats that add structure to the forehead and create balance around the cheekbones. Hats that sit close to the head, like flat caps and bowler hats, are ideal for this purpose, as they provide definition without adding unnecessary width to the widest part of the face.
Long Face Shape with a High Forehead and Narrow Face
For a long face shape, marked by a high forehead and narrow, elongated proportions, the aim is to reduce the appearance of length and create horizontal balance. Hats with wider brims and medium to low crowns work effectively, as they provide width and balance out the elongated facial structure. High crowns should be avoided, as they can further emphasize the face’s length.
Heart Face Shape with Wide Forehead and Narrow Chin
Heart-shaped faces featuring a wide forehead that tapers down to a narrower chin benefit from hats that add width around the jawline to balance out the broader forehead. Medium-brimmed hats are ideal, as they introduce width at the lower part of the face, creating harmonious proportions. A slightly pinched crown adds structure without drawing extra attention to the forehead.
Quick Summary of Best Hats by Face Shape
| Face Shape | Goal | Best Hats |
|---|---|---|
| Square Face | Soften angularity | Bucket hats, newsboy caps |
| Round Face | Add height and definition | Fedoras, Panama hats |
| Diamond Face | Balance wide forehead with a narrow chin | Flat caps, bowler hats |
| Long Face | Reduce face length and add width | Cowboy hats, flat caps |
| Heart Face | Balance wide forehead with a narrow chin | Medium-brimmed hats, bowler hats |
Want to perfect your hat’s shape?
Facial Features To Consider When Choosing A Hat
Prominent Nose
If you have a big nose, the most important thing is the width of the brim. You want something at least as wide as your nose, usually about two and a half inches or more. If you go with a custom hat, you may even decide to have a brim that is wider in the front than in the back. If you get something off the rack, that is not an option you have.
Rather than having it curled up, you want to snap it down. Rather than going for a very pointy pinch, go for something a little wider. Slim brims that are snapped up or slightly snapped down are your enemy because they will just accentuate the size of your nose.
| Ideal style: Snapped-down brim with a moderate pinch |
Receding Chin
If you have a receding chin, go with hats that are not too extreme. A hat can’t help to make the chin disappear, but it can help to level everything and make it look harmonious. So that means opt for a hat with a medium crown and a slight pinch that is not too pointy but also not round. Go for a medium-wide brim that is slightly snapped to the front.
Again, it’s very flattering to tilt the hat slightly to one side. Make sure to avoid a big hat and a full crown because that will just highlight your receding chin; likewise, don’t snap your hat too much because it’s not an advantageous look for you.
| Ideal style: Medium crown with a slight pinch and a forward-snap brim |
Chiseled Features
Now, if you have chiseled features, you want a hat with a slight pinch on the crown that is not too small, and you want a nice deep snap. It’s definitely best not to tilt your hat but to keep it straight so everything looks more proportional.
In order not to highlight your chiseled features, I urge you to avoid a very tall crown or a very slim brim.
| Ideal style: Slightly pinched crown with a deep snap brim |
Protruding Ears
Now, if you have protruding ears, you must have a wider brim that is snapped down and not snapped up. The brim is important because it doesn’t highlight your ears’ size or shape but helps cover them up. Opt for a wider crown that is not too pointy, although a little point is all right.
Also, go with a wide hat band that’s ideally somewhat contrasting because of your ears. It pays not just to snap down the hat in the front but also in the back. If you have protruding ears, you want to avoid small hats with shorter brims and anything pointed up.
Because of that, a Homburg hat is not the right hat for you because it’s curved up, it just highlights your ears, it just stands out, and it’s not a flattering look. The most important thing is that the wide brim is always snapped down.
| Ideal style: Wide-brim hat with a downturned brim and contrasting band |
Best Hat Styles for Different Body Types
Choosing the right hat isn’t just about the face; your body type is crucial in finding a balanced look. Here’s how to pick the ideal hat styles for different builds to create the most flattering proportions.
Hats for Larger Gentlemen
If you have a larger build, avoid small hats with narrow crowns and short brims, as these can make your head appear smaller and your body seem bigger. Instead, choose hats with a wider crown and broader brim to balance your proportions.
For a cleaner look, go with a wide hat band in a color close to the hat itself to reduce contrast. Select a medium-height crown with a slight pinch toward the sides rather than a sharp point in the center. This makes the hat’s shape align more naturally with a fuller frame.
Brim Recommendation: Go for a wide brim, at least 2.5 inches (about 6.25 cm), with a deep snap. Styles like fedoras and Homburgs in larger sizes work well to complement a larger build.
Hats for Tall & Thin Gentlemen
Avoid hats with high crowns for tall, thin builds, as they can add too much height. Instead, go for a medium to low crown for a balanced look.
A contrasting hat band can break up the hat’s height and create a more proportionate appearance. Wearing the hat at a slight tilt also helps to balance the overall shape.
Brim Recommendation: A 2-inch (5 cm) brim is ideal. Avoid short-brimmed hats with curled edges, as these can add height. Instead, try a slightly wider snap brim tilted at an angle, like those on fedoras or snap-brim Trilbies.
Our top 3 hats for the gentlemen.
Hats for Short & Slim Gentlemen
For shorter men, wearing a hat can add height to your appearance. Choose a crown with a gentle point that elongates your silhouette without looking bulky.
A contrasting hat band can draw the eye upward, helping to create a taller appearance. Keep the brim facing up rather than snapping it down, as this gives the illusion of height. Avoid wide-brimmed hats, as they can overpower a smaller frame.
Brim Recommendation: Opt for a narrow brim under 2 inches (around 5 cm) and a higher crown. This will help create a leaner look without overwhelming your proportions. High-crowned Fedoras or classic bowlers with curled-up brims are great choices.
Quick Summary of Hat Styles by Body Type
| Body Type | Key Styling Goals | Ideal Hat Styles |
|---|---|---|
| Larger Build | Balance head and body proportions | Wide-brimmed Fedoras, Homburgs |
| Tall & Thin Build | Avoid adding height; enhance width | Medium or low crowns, wider snap-brim hats |
| Short & Slim Build | Add height to silhouette | Narrow-brimmed hats with higher crowns, Bowlers |
Wondering how to care for your hats?
If You Get Conflicting Information, Don’t Get Confused!
When choosing the right hat, you might come across suggestions that seem to conflict, especially when balancing both face shape and body type. Here’s a simple way to prioritize and make the best decision.
- Focus on facial features first: Since the hat sits closest to the face, prioritize recommendations based on face shape and specific facial features. This helps ensure that the hat complements your primary facial characteristics.
- Consider body type secondary to facial features: Once you have a hat that suits your face, check how it fits your body type. For example, if your face shape suggests a tall crown, but you’re also tall and slim, consider lowering the crown height slightly to avoid adding extra height.
- Use contrasting elements when needed: To adjust proportions, you can use a contrasting hat band to separate the top and bottom parts of the hat visually. This is particularly helpful if you want to reduce or enhance specific dimensions based on body type.
Always Try on Hats Before Buying Them!
Even within the same style, hat sizes and shapes may vary significantly. Pay attention to how the hat sits on your head and the way it balances with your overall look. A well-fitting hat will enhance your appearance and feel natural to wear, so take the time to find the right fit for you.
Not sure about hat etiquette?
Styling a Hat for My Build and Features
I’m wearing a hat in a very nice color which works well with my jacket. It is a snap-brim hat with a finished edge and a crown that is not too extreme. I’m about 6 feet tall, not slim, and not overly big, so I can wear hats with a contrasting and matching headband.
The jacket I’m wearing is a brown and off-white houndstooth made from Harrisons, and it is a nice wool flannel. It is part of a suit, but here, I’m wearing just a jacket. It is combined with a white dress shirt with light blue over the cheque, and with that, I combine it with a silk knit tie in light blue and navy blue; in that way, I pick up the color of the shirt but add a nice texture.
The tie is made of 100% silk and knitted on a 100-year-old machine by Fort Belvedere. I design it myself, and you can find it in our shop. The pocket square I am wearing is a navy blue wool challis with blue dots, which was printed in England, and it goes well with my tie as well as with my navy blue corduroy pants and my shadow-striped socks in navy and blue from Fort Belvedere.
My shoes are chocolate brown Oxfords with a medallion cap toe that almost looked like a whole cut, but they’re not. The brown tone of the shoes goes well with the brown of my belt, which I bought in Spain. It’s a woven belt made of canvas and leather to add something special to my outfit.
I decided to go with a boutonniere, which is a vintage accessory that dapper men would always wear; however, it’s so difficult to find those little accessories today, especially at florists, and therefore, I decided to design my own made out of silk that will never wilt. You can wear it all the time whenever you wear a hat. It is a great accessory because both of them go well together, and once you have those outfits, you will surely be complimented a lot.
What’s your go-to hat? Now that you know the rules, have you considered switching to a different hat for a change?
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I measure my head for a hat?
To measure your head for a hat, use a soft measuring tape and wrap it around your head about half an inch above your ears and across the middle of your forehead. Make sure the tape is level and snug but not tight. This measurement, usually in inches or centimeters, will help you find your correct hat size.
How do I avoid “hat hair”?
To avoid hat hair, wear your hat loosely rather than tightly. Hats made of breathable materials reduce static and flattening. If you’re concerned about your hairstyle, carry a small comb or use some dry shampoo after removing the hat to refresh your hair’s volume.
Are certain hats better for traveling or packing?
Yes, some hats are more travel-friendly. Crushable or packable hats, often made of wool or felt, can be rolled or folded without losing shape, making them ideal for packing. Avoid hats with rigid brims or crowns for travel, as they’re more likely to get damaged.
What’s the best hat style for someone with a bald head?
For those with a bald head, hats made from softer materials like felt or wool are usually comfortable. Fedoras, newsboy caps, and flat caps are all good options, as they provide coverage and add style without being overly warm.
What is the proper way to break in a new hat?
To break in a new hat, wear it around the house for short periods to help it mold to your head. If the hat feels too tight, a hat stretcher or gentle steaming around the band helps loosen it slightly. Avoid pulling or tugging at the brim, which can warp its shape.
Your infographic has a typo in it. The line just beneath the pictures reads “What is you get conflicting information..” This should most likely read “What *IF*..”
Thanks, we will have it corrected.
Dear Raphael
Great read with spot on information . The other important consideration is the colour of hat to match individual kin tone , eye and hair colour which open up your features even further . A lot of years back I went to visit an expert in this field , you can save a lot of money and avoid wrong choices once you learn the best colours for you.
I would like to know the makers of the hats used in this presentation .
Regards Mark.
Nice article.
Here’s a question, what does a man do with his hat in a world that is no longer geared to men’s hats? Wore a new hat from Lock & Co, a brown Voyager trilby, and once I arrived at the restaurant, no one knew what to do with it. No coat check, much less a hat check. Luckily, we were seated in a corner booth and there was a ledge to place the hat on. What did men do back in the day, when attending the theatre or movies, restaurants, museums, the opera, etc? Today, hat checks simply do not exist and coat check rooms have become iffy too, in this security-conscious era.
I miss the days of my adult youth; when tradition, quality, politeness and classic style were still appreciated.
This is a particularly relevant question for guys in Australia, where you would be frizzled without your hat in the summer…… Turn up at the the Theatre or Cinema or Restaurant and safely putting away your hat can be a real issue.
I notice the there are a few places in Adelaide where they make a feature of the hat and coat racks,and they have a very pleasing ambience.
Maybe we just need to push management a little harder?
JB
I always ask the maitre’d or manager. I’ve never had a problem retrieving it.
You are never really dressed without a hat!
Nice article. I must say, however, that to my taste a few of your hat photos show hatbands that strike me as enormously wide. Is that an attempt to shrink the altitude of the hat crown?
Age also a factor in hat selection. Young guy in fedora or homburg or ambassador hat…NOPE!
Hi Sven Raphael,I love your content and video on how to get the right hatโ My question to is Iโm 6-2 on slim athletic build,and I have a oval shape face. I own a vintage 1960โs dark grey short brim fedora from Bernard Hats .com I would like to know your opinion about that style hat for my face shape,and height? Thanks!
Dear Kenneth,
I would suggest you take a look at a Stetson Whippet or Stratoliner , at the moment they are in a fantastic range of colours . The whippet is a bit more formal and the other one is laid back .
A man of your stature would easily get away with a Homburg and in the summer a Plantation Panama . Investigate you may be surprised at what’s out there .
Thanks a lot ! Sir I will
Look into this idea! I will have to include into my collection with my other pork pie,and short brim fedora.
The video should provide the answer ;)
Hi there Sven,i watched your video again …ok! i see the tall slim clip which is what i am;however, do think an oval face shape can wear any type of hats? i see it mentioned in a numerous style blogs. Thanks again. i also love the idea you can wear different hats for different outfits.How many hats do you think a man needs in his wardrobe for versatility?
Great article!
Worth mentioning that you will need a few different colour hats to go with different outfits.
I find that 3 shades (light, medium, dark) of grey and 3 shades of brown hats, plus a black, green, and straw are enough to go with just about any outfit you might wear in any season.
Thanks for sharing!
This is a great topic! I can’t think of a article of clothing l wear that receives more compliments than my hats! Still the hallmark of a well dressed man. Caps not included!
Hi there, we learn as much from mistakes as from right. A suggestion would be to use the GG/Fort Belvedere staff who have different body shapes and different facial features to show which hats are wrong from them, as well as showing which are right.
This will make the article much better.